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Cigar FAQ

(Frequently Asked Questions)

Cigar Basics

What is the anatomy of a cigar?

What is a "premium" cigar?

What is a "Puro"?

What are the basic shapes of premium cigars?

What do the two numbers mean when applied to cigar sizes?

Do the opposite ends of the cigar have different names?

Does the cigar's name indicate its dimension?

Quite often they do. There are some basic shapes that fall within certain size parameters. These shapes are given names, so that there is some degree of universality in the industry. These descriptive dimensions are approximate, but here are some guidelines: Short is less than 5.5 inches. Long is greater than 6.5 inches. Thin is less than 42 ring size. Thick is greater than 47 ring. The group below are the most common shapes.

Robusto: Short and thick
Lonsdale: Thin and long
Corona: Medium length and medium gauge
Churchill: Long and thick
Cigarillo: Short and thin

Please note that these are only generic shape names. For example, a Robusto from one brand may have slightly different dimensions than a Robusto from another brand.

There are other shapes that fall between and around these basics:

Toro: Somewhere between Robusto and Churchill.
Panatela: A skinny Lonsdale.
Rothchild: Somewhere between a Robusto and a Corona.
Presidente: Either a little larger or smaller than a Churchill

Manufacturers can also add one of these common adjectives to the name. They can help you to envision the size. Gorda, Grande, Gran, Larga, Extra, Doble, or Double always mean they are adding on to the size. Petite, Slim, Finos, or Demi indicate some sort of reduction to the size. For example a "Corona Grande" is a long Corona, and would be close to a Lonsdale.

On top of all this we will now add the Figurados. Here are the basic definitions. Note, you will find more disparity here among brands than you can imagine. When you are dealing with Parejos, you can be positive that Robustos from different brands will always resemble each other to some degree. However, with Figurados, almost anything goes. One company's Torpedo will be another's Pyramid or Perfecto. These are the most common descriptions for the shape names on today's market. Remember, all dimensions described are approximations.

Torpedo: The cap is a sharp point, the foot is open. The shape does not begin to taper until the last 2 inches near the cap. The foot will measure between 46 to 54 in ring size. The length can range from 5 to 7 inches.
Piramide: The cap is round, the foot is open. The cigar will immediately taper from the foot right down to the cap. For this reason, many Piramides will be described with two ring sizes. For example, 7 x 36-50. This means that it is a seven inch cigar, and the tuck is 50 ring, and it drops down to 36 by the time it reaches the cap.
Triangulo: Similar to a Piramide, but the cap is pointed.
Belicoso: Similar to a torpedo, but usually a little shorter. Also, the taper will occur even more quickly than the torpedo, typically occurring within the last 3/4" near the cap.
Perfecto: The perfecto will have both ends closed. The cap can be round or pointed. The tuck is typically tapered to the width of a cigarette. On some brands, you light the foot as is, and with others, if it is more than 3/8", you clip off a bit to expose the filler. The sides can be straight, or there can be a bulge in the first half of the cigar near the foot. The length of a perfecto can vary from 4-8"
Diadema: Traditionally, this is a giant perfecto, measuring at least 8" long. However, it is can be used to name any huge scale version of the Figurados described above.
Culebra: Three panetelas twisted around each other and held together with either ribbon or a large cigar band. The segments of a traditional Culebra will be composed of all ligero filler, not mild seco and volado fillers of a regular Panetela. You must separate them before smoking. Do not attempt to straighten out the wavy shape. Smoke them in the curved way that they have been cured.

How do I know what size is right for me?

What do the cigar ratings mean?

Cigar Smoking and Etiquette

How do I open the end cap?

Is there a correct way to light a cigar?

How come my cigar does not always burn evenly?

Can I use any type of flame to light my cigar?

Do I remove the cigar ring?

When do I tap the ash?

How far down can I smoke the cigar?

What are the do's and don'ts when holding or feeling a cigar?

Tobacco Technical Aspects

How many different types of tobacco are there?

How many different tobaccos are used in a premium cigar?

What does Ligero, Seco, and Volado mean?

What does Corojo mean?

What is Colorado?

What is Maduro?

What does "shade grown" or "sungrown" mean?

Are leaves really grown in Connecticut?

Why are wrapper leaves so special?

How many wrapper colors are there?

How is tobacco cured?

How do you know where the cigar is from, if it is made from tobaccos of different countries?

Storage Methods

Why do premium cigars need to be kept in a humidor?

What are characteristics of a good humidor?

What are some other features that a humidor can have?

How should premium cigars be stored?

Must I use distilled water in my humidification element?

What is Humidor Solution?

Is my humidor supposed to be airtight?

How do I set up my humidor for the first time?

What happens to a cigar that was left out of the humidor?

What if the cigar has been left unhumidified for longer than a day? For example, say a few days, a week, or even a month?

Can a dry cigar be dipped in water, sprayed with misted water, or put into a steamy bathroom to speed up its recovery?

How are cigars protected during shipping? Why don't they dry out if it takes more than a day to transport them?

Is temperature control an issue? Can they be stored in a refrigerator, third floor attic or a basement?

Should I remove the plastic sleeves when I put the cigars into my humidor?

Why do experts recommend aging cigars in a humidor before they smoke them?

What does Bloom mean?

What causes mold? What do I do if I see it?

What is the Tobacco Beetle?

How did the Tobacco Beetle get into my humidor?

What can be done to prevent the Tobacco Beetle from infesting my stash, and what can I do if they have already stricken?

Can I freeze all incoming cigars as a preventative measure?

Cigar Accessories

What are the different tools used to cut the cap off the cigar?

There are several methods of cutting the cigar. Here are the most common accessories on the market.

Cutters: A cutter is a guillotine style device used to slice the cap off of the cigar. It is the most common type, and is available as a single, double, and even triple blade. The single and double blades are the most common. Most double blades cutters are more expensive than the single blades, but they will last far longer, as they are self-sharpening. Most single blade cutters are disposable, and should be thrown away once they have stopped making a clean, sharp cut. If you buy an expensive gold or silver single blade cutter, be sure that the blade is replaceable, or else you will have just spent a lot of money on a disposable cutter.

Scissors/Clippers: These scissor-action clippers work the same way that the double blade cutter does. However, they are not self sharpening, and can crush or tear the head off the cigar if they are not kept at peak sharpness. They do not fit comfortably in a pocket, and therefore the lack of portability makes them attractive for home use only.

Wedge Cutter: These cut a "V" down the center of the cap, about an 1/8-1/4" deep. Typically, they work very well on thin (less than 40 ring size) and tapered (torpedo shaped) cigars. They do not give a clean cut on the thicker heads.

Punch: A punch cuts a small circle into the cap. A well designed one can have an ejection spring to push out the cut tobacco. The punch does not work well on thin cigars. It works well on thick cigars, especially the oversized ones of 54 ring gauge or more. Often a guillotine cutter can not accommodate these mammoths. Also, the punch hole in these giants relieves you from having to put the whole cigar in between your lips, which can be uncomfortable on the jaw. Rather, you can "sip" the smoke through the punch opening.

Poker/Piercer: This is a pin-like rod that just pokes a hole in the cap. It does not allow a good draw, which can cause the cigar to burn improperly, or provide its full flavor. It also causes a build up of bitter tars at its opening, once you have been smoking the cigar for a while. Therefore, a piercer is not recommended on anything larger than a short, thin cigar.

How do I carry my cigars around when I travel or just go out for the day?

You must protect the cigar in some fashion, as it will either dry out or get bruised. Here are the options you can chose which best suits your needs.

Tubes: A tube will hold one cigar. If it has a good seal, it will protect it for many days or even weeks. They can be constructed of any type of material, ranging from plastic to platinum, and will be priced accordingly. Some even have tiny humidification devices built in, but this is not necessary for short term use. The only downside to these carrying tubes is that if your friend has one it means that he did not bring a cigar for you.

Finger Cases: These are cases made from either leather, metal, wood, or plastic. They will have 2-4 "fingers" for the cigars. The leather models are soft cases, and are most often made from 2 telescoping pieces, that slide within each other. They are made for specific length cigars, but will often handle a variance of 1-1.5 inches more than they were designed for. Sometimes they have individual slots for each cigar, but these are not absolutely necessary. These cases will provide several hours of protection and are perfect for a night out. They are not heavy and will not show a bulge by weighing down your shirt or jacket pocket. The metal, wood, or plastic varieties are hard cases, providing more protection from both the elements and from being crushed. However, they are bulky, will pull down on your clothing, if they even fit into the pockets. They are more suited for carrying in a briefcase or golf bag. Elaborate ones can have miniature humidification devices, but these are only necessary if you want to insure the cigar's freshness for an extended period of time.

Travel Humidors: Travel humidors are miniature humidors, complete with a humidification element. As the name implies, they are used when you need to take your smokes out of town. They will hold between 4 and 20 cigars, depending on size. They are made from wood, metal, plastic, or any combination of these materials. As this is a short term storage unit, a Spanish cedar lining is a nice cosmetic touch, but not an automatic prerequisite. There are many poorly designed models on the market, and you should look for the following features and pitfalls when considering the purchase. First and foremost, the seal must be a good one. The seal on travel size humidors should either have the same type of interlocking "lips" that a full size one has, or a gasket of some kind. You need to be confident that moist air is not escaping. Another important feature is the interior protection it offers for the cigars from being knocked around. Will they continue to slam into each other or the walls of the unit? Well designed ones will be built very thinly, so that you can only stack the cigars in one or two layers, thus minimizing the potential for damage. Good alternatives to keeping the cigars in place have grooves cut into them (usually molded plastic), foam egg cushions, or straps that act as seatbelts. These features are useful, but not completely necessary, as you can always put some balled up bubble wrap into a half filled humidor to prevent them from jostling. This is not exactly elegant, but extremely functional. The last key factor when examining a travel humidor is its strength. You want the unit to stand up to external stress, without breaking. A good, functional travel humidor will have all of these features.

What makes a proper lighter for cigars?

What makes a good ashtray for cigars?

Does my humidor need a hygrometer?

How do I calibrate my analog hygrometer?

Dampen a towel (not dripping wet, but good and damp), then wrap the hygrometer in the towel for 30 to 45 minutes. Then unwrap it and read the humidity (quickly). If your hygrometer is perfectly calibrated (few are) it will be reading exactly 100% humidity. Most likely, it will be reading somewhere between 80 and 90%. That's ok - if it's reading 90%, then you know that when it's in your humidor and reading 65, your humidor is really at 75%. From now on you can just make this simple adjustment and you won't have to mess with the calibration screw.
Want to get a little more technical? No problem. Luckily, as nature would have it, when salt and water (NaCl and H2O for you studious types), are in a saturated solution at equilibrium, the resultant humidity is 75%. This gives a fantastic reference point to calibrate our hygrometers.

Here's the procedure you should use:

Get a bottle cap of some sort - like the kind you might get off of a beer! Fill it with regular table salt. Then drop a few drops of water on the salt. DO NOT put to much water on the salt. The salt should only be damp, and not a liquid solution. It should be like moist sand, not like soft mud.

Then put the bottle cap of salt and your hygrometer in a see-through, sealable container. I like to use a large freezer bag. Seal the freezer bag or other container. Wait several hours (about six). The humidity inside the bag will be 75%. Compare it to your hygrometer. You will then know exactly how far off your hygrometer is, just like with the damp towel test, above.

Take your hygrometer out of the humidor and wrap it in several layers of dripping wet paper towels. Leave it alone for 5 minutes. During this waiting, go find your "precision" screwdriver set. Once you have found it, go and unwrap the hygrometer unit. If it is operating correctly, it should be registering between 95-100. If not, take the appropriate size screwdriver and stick it through the hole on the bottom and look for a screw that looks like it is connected to the axis of the dial's needle. Turn this screw to until the dial reads 95. If you took more than 1 minute to find the screw and turn it, then repeat the entire process, to ensure you have calibrated it as accurately as you could. You may have to go through this ritual every 3-6 months to ensure as much accuracy as possible. But remember, even a properly calibrated analog hygrometer can have a 5-10% error rate, so always keep that in mind if you think you have a problem with your moisture level.